|
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
How to fill cracks in a ceiling to stop them opening up again
Filling Ceiling Cracks
Ceilings are flat. Stick anything onto the surface and it shows. They are so difficult to get and keep flat that builders rarely bother anymore - why do you think Artex was invented?!
Trouble is, in period houses Artex looks awful. Often people resort to covering ceilings with lining paper. This doesn't always look great either. And, if you've only got cracks and no dropped or sagging sections, isn't entirely necessary. Nor is pulling down the whole ceiling and putting a new one up or even skimming the whole thing, as long as we're just talking about a few expansion / settlement cracks on a largely level and sound surface.
Here's how to fill those ceiling cracks permanently
Use a flexible decorator's caulk or gap filler. It must be the type that is workable with water and a finger or brush and described as "permanently flexible". Don't use filler for sanding; it's only going to sit on the surface, look like the Himalayas and crack under the same forces as caused the original damage.
-
Start by brushing the crack with a clean paintbrush to get all the loose stuff out
-
Then brush some undiluted PVA right into it. This will create a sound surface for the gap / decorator's filler to adhere to
-
Next squirt a thick bead of decorator's or gap filler right into the crack, over filling it slightly. Work quickly and accurately so that the filler is still workable without water
-
Now take a scrapper or putty blade and run it along your bead, forcing it into the crack and flatting it out
-
Finally get a stiff paintbrush and some water and brush away the filler at the sides of the crack. Try not to get water into the crack itself
-
If it's a deep crack you may need to repeat this final stage several times.
How to remove skirting board Without splitting it!
Removing Skirting for Reuse
For some jobs, you need to take the skirting off, but you want to refit it again. This might be to facilitate lifting the boards, laying flooring (where the skirting needs to be raised), electrical work, plastering, etc.
Trouble is, if it's been on the wall a while, drying out in a heated property, making it very vulnerable to splitting. Plus the upper edge - which is where you are going to be attacking the board from - is often moulded, thiner and therefore most fragile. Levering against that is only going to result in misery.
Here's a tip that will help remove the board cleanly without splitting
Starting at one end of a skirting length, take a long broad screwdriver - I use an old one with a broken tip - and tap it down behind the board all the way to the floor. This should bring the end out about 1cm from the wall, giving you room to get an 18inch crowbar in.
If you droppped the crowbar in now and starting levering on the skirting, you would probably split the decorative top off the skirting. Instead slip the bar in at 45 degrees of upright and between the shaft of your screwdriver and the wall. Pull on the screwdriver handle moderately and creep the bar down as far as possible behind the skirting, being sure not to let it slip out from behind the screwdriver. When it's in as far as you can get it, push the handle back. The tongue will push against the screwdriver, forcing out the board across it's whole height and thereby preventing splitting.
How to repair decorative cornice
Repairing Decorative Plaster Cornice and Ceiling Roses
Repairing minor damage in old cornices or decorative ceiling roses is quite simple for the DIY er. If a few details have fallen off ie: leaf moulds, or egg and dart or dentils, a simple mould can be made using Play Dough, or plastercine.
-
Find a decent part of the cornice / rose to copy, and wash with mild soapy water. DO NOT remove the old paint that has built up over the years as you will end up having to remove the lot which is a nightmare
-
Mould Play Dough over detail ensuring enough coverage, and poke a few finger imprints into the outside of the Play Dough but not right through
-
Using a mix of plaster mixed with dirty hot water so that it sets fast... apply to the back of the Play Dough, this acts as a container for the moulds, if mould is quite big place some scrim cloth in the plaster to prevent cracking
-
Remove plaster backing carefully, then remove Play Dough carefully, then place plaster onto a bench then place Play Dough back into plaster mould making sure to aline the finger imprints
-
Pour Plaster into mould and leave to dry, Dont worry about specialist plaster for minor jobs (such as casting plaster or crystacal) as it's hard to source and expensive
-
Remove new detail from the mould and stick into place using gripfill...
How to re-skim old walls
Re-skimming old walls
Many people are put off major DIY projects by the prospect of having to make good the finish coat plaster at the end. Plastering / skimming is shrouded in mystery and many DIYers unneccessarily consider it beyond them, before even attempting it.
Plastering is difficult, there's no doubt about that, but good results can be achieved with the right preparation and effort. True, at first your efforts often require a bit of filling and sanding here and there, but practice makes perfect. Never say never!
Here's a tip that will help you achieve a good, flat plaster finish
Before re-skimming old walls mix a bit of water based paint in with the Unibond (PVA) prior to plastering. This will ensure that you have completely covered the walls and you have left no suction spots which could craze the new skimming, because you will be able to see uncovered places.
Thorough application of a strong PVA mix is essential for novice plasterers. Don't be tempted to dilute down your PVA with 5 parts water, as often recommended on the container. This will seriously reduce your working time. Two coats of 50:50 PVA water mix will help ensure good coverage and allow you plenty of time to trowel-up your plaster before it goes off.
|
| [Back to top] |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
