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Choosing the right brush
Use as large a brush as you can comfortably manage. Remember that a 6 inch brush will become very tiring on the wrist after a short time, (perhaps 4 inch for walls and 2 inch for flat doors).
Loading the brush with paint
If necessary, stir the paint (read the label on the tin), then transfer some to a paint kettle.
Load the brush by dipping the tips into the paint. Overloading the brush leads to dry paint forming in the upper part of the bristles and hardening. Over time, this will ruin the brush.
Unless you are using non drip paint, dab off the excess to prevent drips by pushing the bristles against the inside of the kettle - not the rim.
Order of painting
Work right to left if you are right handed or, vice versa.
Start at the top, cutting in the edge of section as you go.
Work in bays of about 0.5m X 0.5m at a time.
Applying the paint
Apply the paint to the surface using up and down stokes.
Spreading the paint
Spread the paint by brushing at right angles. This will create an even film.
Laying off or smoothing the paint
Then lay off (finish with light strokes) in the direction of the grain or the longest side of the part you are painting.
Sequence for painting with a brush
Once you have finished the first bay (top right) move left to start the next bay.
Apply the paint to the new section as before.
Blend each new section with the previous one by lightly working back towards it when laying-off . Always work new into old to avoid marking the drying paint.
Continue in this fashion across the surface to the end, then begin a new row of bays below the first.
Continue this process until the whole surface is complete.
Don't go back to areas once you have moved on, as the drying paint will no longer be workable and will be easily damaged.
Cutting in with a brush
Paint the edges first, initially using a large brush. This is called cutting in. The size of brush you use depends on what you can comfortably manage, but dont be tempted to use a small brush on a large surface. If adjacent areas are also going to be painted, it is not necessary to be too accurate when cutting in.
Paint a band around the edge of the surface and around other obstructions like switches and sockets. These are the parts you cant do with the roller.
Loading the tray and roller
Pour some of the paint into a roller tray. Load the roller by rolling it in the paint. Then roll it on the grid of the tray to spread the paint evenly over the roller.
Roller painting method
Work in bays as you would for brush painting, but the bays will be about 1m X 1m.
Roll this onto the surface in a tight W motion. Keep the roller fully in contact with the surface to avoid skipping or skidding
Roller painting sequence
Without reloading, repeat the process at right angles to spread the paint in an even film. Finally, roll it again with an almost straight back and forth motion in the first direction. Keep the same final direction on the whole surface - walls vertically, ceilings parallel to the window wall.
Reload and move to the next bay. As with all painting, work the paint onto an unpainted area first and gradually back into the previous paint to blend the areas. Always work new paint into old. You should find that each full roller enables you to paint about a square metre at a time.
Painting ceilings
For ceilings, set up a safe and stable working platform using two pairs of steps or hop-ups and a scaffold board. This will enable you to reach about a 1m wide strip of the ceiling at a time, without having to continually move your steps.
Start at the window edge and work away from it. This is particularly useful when using a similar colour, as you can readily see painted and unpainted areas by viewing them at an angle to the light.
Mini rollers
For narrow or awkward areas such as those behind a radiator, use a mini roller which is slimmer and has a long handle
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