|
|
|
| |
| |
|
|
Mixing the paste or adhesive
Mix your paste in a bucket according to the manufacturer's instructions. Follow these instructions carefully, as they will vary according to the type of paper you are hanging.Alternatively use a ready-mixed paste suited to the paper you are hanging.
You will need a large pasting brush to apply this with.Tie a piece of string across the handles of the bucket to provide a resting place for your pasting brush, rather than leaving it in the bucket. Or, buy one of the brushes with a hook on the handle for clipping it to the rim of a bucket.
Cutting the paper
Measure the length of the first drop of paper. Add three or four inches to this to allow for trimming both ends. Unroll the paper on the paste table and cut the first piece to length. Some people find it easier to measure the paper by unrolling it down the wall and marking the required length.For large patterns you may wish to take into account how it will look at the top when trimmed. It may look best to fit a whole repeat of the pattern just below the top, rather than have the design cut off mid stream.
Wallpaper pattern matching
With this first piece face up on the table, unroll a second piece next to it, carefully aligning the pattern before cutting it to length.Some people prefer to cut several lengths before they start work, but you need to be quite sure not to make any mistakes when doing this. If you are a beginner, just cut the first piece and leave cutting the next until you have finished hanging the first. You can then hold the roll next to the first drop on the wall when matching and cutting the second length.
Wallpaper pattern repeat
Depending upon the pattern you have on your paper, it may reduce wastage to cut lengths from alternate rolls.
Pasting the paper
Lay the first length of paper on your table face down.Line up the far edge and one end of the paper with the far edge and one end of the table.Then, move it slightly so it overlaps the table edge by a couple of millimetres (this will ensure that no paste gets onto the surface of the table to mark future pieces of paper).Load your brush and apply the paste along the centre of the piece of paper.
Next, paste the far side working outwards in a criss-crossed fashion from the centre.
Slide the paper towards you so that it overhangs the near side of the table in the same way as before. Repeat the pasting process for this side.You can paste up using a roller, but only work it in one direction otherwise youll find the paper being rolled up with it.
Folding the pasted wallpaper
Finally, check that there are no gaps or dry areas. Fold over the end at which you started, towards the other end of the table, stopping short of the unpasted section. This will prevent the paste from drying out and will allow you to continue pasting the rest of the length. Do not fold it down hard as this will crease the paper. Make sure the folded edges line up so that no area of pasted paper is left exposed. A tip here is to look at the end of the table as you fold the paper, rather than the paper in your hand. Move the paper along so that you are able to paste the rest of it.
Repeat the pasting process as before, overlapping the table slightly. Paste the centre first, then the far side. Move the paper towards you, then paste the near side.Finally, lift the last end of the paper and fold it towards the first end.
Allowing the paper to soak
This should now be left to soak according to the manufacturer's instructions. Depending on how long this is, you may wish to apply paste to a second piece before hanging the first, but be sure to allow each piece to soak for the same length of time.Soaking is important as it allows the paper to become pliable. It also swells. Failing to soak the paper for the right length of time will cause problems.
Preparation before hanging paper
When decorating, this will almost certainly be the last job to do - you don't want to end up with paint on it! So get everything else completed first and allow paintwork to dry.
Preparation is again the key to success. Before any paperhanging is done, be sure that your surface is ready for it.
Lining paper
Hanging lining paper first will obviously mean the job takes almost twice as long to do, but it will produce a superior job, which will both look better and last longer. Note that this can be hung before painting the woodwork in the room.
Tools and equipment
Also be sure to have to hand all the equipment you are going to need during the job
First length of wallpaper
Make sure that you have all the equipment you need to hand, and suitably set up steps.
Take the first length of paper and unfold the top end.
Leave the bottom end folded for the moment.
Holding the paper in both hands, slightly away from the wall, line it up with your vertical mark on the wall.
Remembering to allow an overlap at the top for trimming, gently push the paper against the wall, making any slight adjustments to its position by gentle sliding.
Smoothing to remove air bubbles
Using your hanging brush, smooth down the centre of the paper to push out the air.
Next, smooth downwards at an angle towards the outer edges either side of the centre.
By working in one direction only you will avoid the possibility of pushing an air bubble first one way, then the other.
You will, however, need to work upwards for the part nearest the ceiling and can use the tips of the brush to stipple the paper into this junction.
Unfold the bottom section of the paper and repeat the process for this end.
Marking the paper for trimming
To mark the ends for trimming, use the back edge of your scissors to score a light line along the ceiling or skirting angle.
Lift the paper away from wall a little and trim to this line.
Brush the paper back down against the wall, expelling air from behind, particularly at the ends.
Try to avoid getting any paste onto the face of the paper - depending upon the paper you are hanging, it may discolour or damage it.
If you do get paste onto the face of the paper, remove it immediately with a damp sponge. Do not allow it to dry.
It is best to be methodical when hanging paper and to keep your tools clean all the time.
Trimming wallpaper with a straight edge and knife
As an alternative to this method you can do as many professional decorators do. They use a steel straight edge pushed firmly into the angle to be trimmed and slice through the paper with a craft knife. The knife must be kept sharp at all times, as a dull blade will pull the paper rather than cut it. If you want to use this method, practice using a couple of offcuts first. It works particularly well with contract vinyls and other heavy-duty papers.
Hanging the next length of paper
When the next drop is pasted and ready to hang, repeat the process.
Use the edge of the previous drop to line up with.
Line up the pattern
You may find it easier to position the paper on the wall a fraction away from the edge of the preceding piece and then to slide it into position.Be sure to maintain the pattern match. If, as happens with many papers, the patterns don't match up all the way down, make sure that it matches at eye level. The mismatches above and below eye level will not be so noticeable.
Continue hanging paper in this fashion to the end of the first wall.
Trimming wallpaper at the corner
At the end of the wall, you'll need to trim the paper into the corner. Do not trim it exactly to the corner but allow it to run round by about half an inch. This generates a small overlap in the corner, which provides a really professional finish. Without this, it is highly likely that the paper in the corner will not join perfectly all the way down and a gap may be left.
Remaining walls
The corner is unlikely to be perfectly square. When hanging the first piece on the next wall you will need to mark another vertical line.
You will also need to match the paper in the corner. The previous piece was trimmed, so you cannot use the offcut since it too will need to be trimmed. Take a new piece, measured and cut to allow for both trimming and matching. If more than a couple of inches will need to be trimmed, cut off most of it before pasting (but remember to allow enough for the final trimming at the corner).
Mark the vertical line on the wall for the width of this next piece, allowing for it to be trimmed to match.
Continue papering this wall as for the first.
As the paper is unlikely to match in the final corner, try to plan so that this is in the least noticeable part of the room.
Trimming paper around switches and sockets
Be sure to switch off the power supply to these before papering around them, and leave it off until the adhesive has dried out.
Slacken the retaining screws for each unit as you get to it.
Hang the paper in the normal way, allowing it to go over the switch but be careful not to damage it.
By pressing the paper lightly over the switch, you will be able to identify the four corners.
Mark these and cut through the paper from the centre of the switch out towards these marks. Gently ease the paper back to the wall around the switch.
You will now have four triangles of paper pointing out towards you. Trim these but allow a little to tuck in behind the switch cover.
Pull the switch plate away from the wall and gently brush these pieces behind it.
Reposition the switch and gently tighten the screws. Final tightening of these can be done once the paper has dried.
Trimming paper around round or shaped items
Hang the paper over the item lightly.
Mark the centre and cut from the nearest edge of the paper to this point.
Make radial cuts out from the mark.
Push the paper back into place.
Mark the flaps where they meet the edge of the item and trim before brushing the paper back.
Trimming paper around door & window frames
Hang the paper down over the frame lightly and mark the position of its corners.
Cut from the waste area of the paper in towards these marks.
Now gently smooth the paper down against the wall and into the edges of the frame.
Mark and trim in the normal way.
Trimming paper around external corners
The easiest way to paper external corners (which are rarely square or vertical) is to take the paper around the corner by about half an inch and trim it to this point.
The next section of paper can then be hung vertically, overlapping this half inch and trimmed a fraction back from the corner.
The professional alternative, which avoids an overlap, is to run the first piece around the corner by a couple of inches. The second piece is then hung ovelapping this, taking care to match the pattern. The two pieces are then spliced using a straight edge and sharp knife. The edges are lifted and the excess from both pieces removed. The two edges are then smoothed down creating a perfect joint.
Trimming paper around recessed openings
Hang the length which overlaps the recess.
Cut a horizontal line a fraction above the head of the window, back to the top corner of the recess.
Cut a line a fraction below the top of the sill, back to the bottom corner of the recess.
Now smooth this middle section around the side of the opening. If the side of the recess is very out of square treat it as an external angle as before.
Now, allowing for pattern matching and trimming, cut a piece to suit the recess at the top, as if it were a continuation of the length just hung.
Paste this piece and position it, carefully aligning the pattern.
Slide the front edge up under the main length.
Trim the two pieces carefully just above the head of the window, using a sharp blade and straight edge.
Remove the offcuts and smooth back down.
Continue papering above and below the recessed frame, treating the top as an external angle.
As you reach the far side, treat this exactly the same as for the first side of the recess.
Be sure to hold the paper a little away from the wall and line it up with the edge of the last pieces above and below the recess before pushing it back to the wall into position.
Trimming paper around and behind radiators
It is always best to remove radiators so that paper may be hung properly behind them.
If you are not happy doing this, it is perfectly possible to make a reasonably good job without removing them.
Switch off the radiator by turning off the valve or turning off the heating altogether. Allow it to cool - hot radiators tend to dry the paper out too quickly.
When you reach the radiator, hang the paper lightly over it, allowing it to drop down in front.
Measure the position of the radiator bracket in relation to the end of the radiator.
Mark the position of the top and bottom of the bracket on the paper.
Cut up from the bottom of the paper, through the bottom mark, to the top one. Then make a cut out between these marks to match the width of the bracket.
Now lift the paper away from the radiator and feed it behind, allowing it to hang down either side of the bracket.
Using a long-handled mini roller, smooth the paper behind the radiator before finally trimming in the usual way.
Trimming paper around fireplaces and other awkward shapes
These are actually not disimilar to window and door frames. They just have a lot more angles to deal with.
Hang the paper, lightly overlapping the item, then make cuts from the waste in towards each angle. Ease the paper back in to the profile, and mark and trim as usual.
If possible, try to mark the paper with the back edge of your scissors to provide a cutting line. Using a pencil can leave marks on the finished paper.
|
| [Back to top] |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
